First, take the cover off with an 8mm socket. Shutting the fuel off and tipping the bike on it's side makes it so you don't have to drain the oil and makes it easier to work on. Here you can see the six bolts that need to be taken off next. I had to use a engine stop plug to make sure the engine didn't turn while I was getting the bolts off, I had one laying around, and it made the job easier.
Here is what it looks like when you get the six bolts removed, for those that have replaced a clutch before this should look really familiar. Now just take the friction plates and drive plates out.
After you get the plates out, the instructions say to replace 5 of the 7 drive plates with 5 .062 drive plates from the kit. The other two you replace with the thinner .047 plates. After getting it all together you have to check for the correct gap. I ended up having to take it all apart to use one more .062 plate in place of one of the .047 plates to get it within the range.
After installing the friction plates and rings, you put the lower assembly on by first installing guide studs to get it positioned over the thrust washers, then replacing the guide studs with these screws. After this, you re-install the throwout bearing assembly. Make sure you put the spacer ball that is supplied with the kit in under the throwout bearing shaft or it won't work.
Here's what makes the magic happen! All these balls are forced outward as the motor spins faster putting pressure on the clutch. I had a couple balls getting caught up in a few of the slots, so make sure you check each one that they move freely.
After you put your balls on, this little plate goes over it and the 12 little screws hold it all together. Wow, it looks good! Almost a shame to cover it up. Make sure to put blue lock tight on all the screws as instructed. This is the point where you need to check the gap. If all is good then your done with this part, if not just take all these little screws back off and replace one of the plates like I had to do!(it's not that hard, really)
This is the perch adjuster that was supplied with my kit. It allows you to fine tune the engagement point right here on your perch and it allows your clutch lever to remain in place to act as an override if you still wish to use your clutch. This was a big plus for me to be able to still have the clutch override in order to blip the clutch to get the rear tire to break loose and/or get the motor into the upper revs of the powerband.
Dang this looks good! The quality of all the parts were really top notch!
Ok, don't laugh at this little vid, but I had to include it on here to show the results as much as I could in my front yard. The coolest thing for me was to put the bike in 3rd gear and just take off from a dead stop! I also wheelied up over the curb a couple times etc. The clutch feathering was dead on! I am not that great at using the clutch, especially after loosing some of my nerve function in that hand after breaking my arm, so to have this kind of consistency is going to greatly improve my riding. Of course you don't want to make a habit of starting out in third gear, but it really shows what the rekluse is capable of. I still use the clutch lever a bit, but the rekluse really makes everything easier.
